Diamonds In
A Time Machine
Flashback to
the time that only the Creator’s timepiece could measure….
Carbon deposits in the Earth’s mantle instantaneously
crystallized due to crushing pressure and intense heat. The formed crystals or rough diamonds
clustered in lattices that were encapsulated inside graphites beneath the
Earth’s crust for probably millions of years.
A point in history came when ultra-strong underground volcanic eruptions
occurred repeatedly. One or more of
these explosions hit and carried the diamond-bearing graphites out of the
Earth’s crust. The graphites ejected the
rough diamonds amidst intense speed of eruption. The diamonds scattered and were buried within
volcanic materials that spread and cooled on the Earth’s surface. These are the diamonds that are being
unearthed through mining.
Graphite rocks containing diamonds |
19th
Century
In 1867, Eureka Diamond, the first diamond ever to
be discovered by mankind was unearthed in Kimberley, South Africa. It weighed 10.73 carats Thereafter, more diamonds were discovered,
mined, cut and created into jewelry and industrial pieces.
20th
Century
In the circa ‘50s, General Electric pioneered the
High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) technology used in growing the diamond
seeds in laboratories (lab) which mimics the condition of heat and pressure in
the Earth’s mantle.
An HPHT press |
21st
Century
Global lab-grown diamond producers such as IIA
Technologies (formerly Gemesis), Scio and D. NEA of the US and Deluxe Diamonds
of UK trade their lab-grown gems via their websites. In 2011, D. NEA put up a lab-grown diamond
boutique in Greenville but it was short-lived.
In 2014, Thomas Florencio and Daniela San Agustin established
the world’s first brand and showroom of cultured diamonds called Golcondia
Cultured Diamonds. Golcondia cultured diamonds are also essentially lab-grown
or lab-created diamonds. However, the
“cultured” nomenclature is what the company opted to use. Apparently, the closure of the short-lived D.
NEA boutique makes Golcondia the only existing brick-and-mortar cultured
diamond retailer in the world.
The brains behind Golcondia-- Daniela "Danii" San Agustin and Thomas "Tomy" Florencio |
The Golcondia Cultured Diamonds Showroom is located at the Mid-Level 2/3, East Wing of the Shangri-La Plaza in EDSA, Philippines.
The Golcondia Showroom's entrance |
Elegant wood and glass counters of fine diamond jewelry are seen through Golcondia Showroom's glass panes |
Golcondia, A
Diamond in the Rough
Establishing the world’s first brand and showroom
of cultured diamonds is an ambitious move, owing to the popularity of mined
diamonds as perpetually promoted by De Beers, Tiffany & Co, Harry Winston,
among others. Similar to cultured pearls
that are already regarded in the jewelry industry as real water gems alongside
its forerunner, the genuine sea-harvested pearls, lab-grown or cultured
diamonds seem to encounter the same kind of resistance that Mikimoto
experienced when he announced that he could grow cultured pearls.
Golcondia is driven by a noble vision, to promote real
diamonds that are environment-friendly and guaranteed conflict-free. No mining bloodshed nor child or abusive
labor practices were involved in the growth of cultured diamonds. The prime mover, Mr. Thomas “Tomy”
Florencio, a third-generation diamond trader and jeweler from the Matheu-Florencio
clan established Golcondia Cultured Diamonds after reconnecting with his former
classmates in Gemological Institute of America who ventured into growing
diamonds in Singapore. Mr. Florencio
chose the name Golcondia for the company and its brand of cultured diamonds, as
a reminder that the purest forms of diamonds came from Golconda, a fabled
mining region in India.
An innovative and forward-looking spirit, Mr.
Florencio did not allow himself to be stifled by the initial reaction of people
that they have never heard of cultured diamonds. Mr. Florencio went on to obtain the exclusive
distributorship of cultured diamonds in the Philippines from all of the diamond
growing facilities of the world. Ms.
Daniela San Agustin, Managing Director, assists and collaborates with Mr.
Florencio for the sales and promotion of the Golcondia brand of cultured
diamonds.
Golcondia in itself is a diamond in the rough. Its raw vision has been unearthed from the
unpopular, polished by technology and is set to shine in the jewelry
industry.
From A Tiny
Seed To A Sparkling Jewelry
Mr. Florencio states that only a diamond can create
a diamond. Thus, diamond seeds are
needed to begin the process for a diamond to grow. The diamond seed is then placed in a diamond
growing greenhouse, a highly controlled environment that replicates the nature’s
conditions for a diamond seed to grow, atom-by-atom, in a vacuum. The diamond growing greenhouses are
state-of-the-art facilities run by highly-skilled engineers, scientists and
physicists to calibrate heat and pressure identical to what occurs deep beneath
the Earth’s surface.
Similar to what happens in a typical flower
greenhouse, which is temperature-controlled to make possible the growth of
exotic plants all year round, it is still nature that plays the role in the growth
of the plant. Therefore, a harvest
results in a variety of colors, shapes, sizes, etc. Not one plant is like the other. The diamond growing greenhouse’s conditions
vary just like the growth of diamonds near the Earth’s core. Golcondia has contracted independent
Greenhouses, which are located in Singapore, United States, Belgium and
Netherlands to supply the gems. These
Greenhouses utilize both HPHT and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) technology to
grow diamonds. It takes about 8-12 weeks
to grow a diamond to the rough form and due to the natural environment effect
in the Greenhouses, these have so far produced diamonds weighing from 30 points
to 3 carats only.
Shown here is the chronology of what happens in a diamond greenhouse.
A diamond seed is inspected prior to growth |
A highly-skilled technician mounts the diamond seed into the diamond growing machine |
It takes 8-12 weeks for a diamond seed to grow into a rough diamond |
Here, a rough diamond is harvested and cut prior to polishing. |
After harvesting as rough diamonds, Golcondia’s
cultured diamonds go through the same supply chain as mined diamonds. They are sent to the same diamond cutting and
polishing centers located in Israel, Belgium, Russia and China. Afterwards, these diamonds are sent to
international buying offices located in Dubai, Hong Kong and United
States. Once selected, the diamonds are
sent to reputable third-party laboratories such as HRD Antwerp, GIA and IGI for
grading and certification. Once
certified, they are sent to the Golcondia head office where some are selected
for setting into fine jewelry while the remaining loose diamonds are sold to
the wholesale market.
A curious customer might say, “A diamond seed comes from mined diamonds so it might have also involved the social and environmental conflicts associated with a full-grown rough diamond”. However, Golcondia states that they source the diamond seed from their own greenhouse. Very minimal carbon footprint (the greenhouse facility is certified with ISO 14000, the highest in environmental standards) and an elite group of highly-skilled workforce are employed in the growing of cultured diamonds.
Is Cultured
Diamond A Real Diamond?
This is the jewelry industry’s 100 Million Dollar
question with a simple direct response.
Yes, it is! A cultured diamond is
a real diamond.
The only difference between a cultured diamond and
a mined diamond is the point of origin, or what has been poetically called, the
“origin of the rough”. A cultured
diamond grows in a Greenhouse while a mined diamond grows in the Earth’s
mantle. The former grows above the
ground while the latter grows under the ground.
But in all facets of being a jewel, cultured and mined diamonds measure
the same.
So, how does a cultured diamond measure up to its
predecessor, the mined diamond? The
International Gemological Institute (IGI) and Gemological Institute of America
(GIA) certified that cultured diamonds have the same properties as mined
diamonds.
Comparative table showing the same properties of mined and cultured diamonds while the simulants have lower properties |
Local jewelers also have attested that they cannot
identify a cultured diamond from a mined diamond since both have identical
measurements and properties when put under the same gem scale.
How Much Do
Cultured Diamonds Cost?
The price of a cultured diamond is also dependent
on the 4Cs of mined diamond: Carat,
Color, Clarity and Cut.
Carat
Carat is the unit of weight for a diamond. A carat is subdivided in 100 points. 0.01 equals 1 point. 1 carat is equal to 0.20
grams.
Color
Color refers to the amount of tint that occurs
naturally while a diamond is being formed.
Depending on the type of impurities, a diamond’s color may range from
clear, yellow, pink, blue and green.
Clarity
Clarity refers to internal features or inclusions
and surface characteristics or blemishes within or on a diamond when magnified
10x under standard viewing conditions.
Cut
Cut refers to how the proportions, polish, symmetry
of a diamond affect its overall appearance.
These factors determine the brightness, fire, scintillation and weight
ratio of diamonds.
In general, cultured diamonds cost less by 25%-30% from
the price of mined diamond with the same 4Cs, not because it is an inferior
version of the mined diamond, but because the distribution channels of cultured
diamonds do not involve several change of hands that bloat overhead costs,
which is usually the case in the distribution of mined diamonds.
How Do You
Know You Are Getting Your Money’s Worth?
Each Golcondia cultured diamond piece comes with a
Certificate of Authenticity from international diamond graders such as IGI, GIA
and HRD Antwerp. These certificates are
identical to those of mined diamonds which contain the diamond grade and full
disclosure of its origin. Each cultured
diamond piece is also laser-inscribed with the certificate number and point of
origin.
A Certificate from HRD Antwerp |
You are assured that you are purchasing a real
diamond that peacefully grew and created without damage to the environment and
innocent lives during production.
Golcondia also conducts workshops to educate the
public on cultured diamonds. So, a
prospective buyer does not only have the chance to own a diamond jewelry piece
from the world’s first brand and showroom of cultured diamonds, he also acquires
or increases knowledge on gemology. Now,
that’s worth your money.
The Prestige
of Owning Golcondia Cultured Diamonds
Golcondia is categorized as a fine diamond jewelry
Company that provides real diamonds through modern technology. Golcondia sets
its cultured diamonds only in 18K gold to create superior quality jewelry. It offers an array of choices from colorless (white)
diamonds to the fancy-colored ones such as vivid blues, vivid yellows and the
most sought-after vivid pinks.
Golcondia Collection
The Golcondia Showroom features a collection of fine jewelry in a variety of clear and vivid-colored cultured diamonds.
Cultured diamond fine jewelry and loose stones |
The collection shown here is modeled by Vanessa Matsunaga.
Model wears the dangling earrings made of clear cultured diamonds |
The blue cultured diamond stud earrings as seen by the display window |
Model wears the stud earrings made of blue cultured diamonds |
Close-up view of the blue diamond stud earrings |
The pink cultured diamond clip-and-pendant earrings as seen on the display shelf |
A closer look at the pink cultured diamond earrings shows the dual purpose of the jewelry-- a clip earring with detachable pendant |
Model wears the clip-and-pendant earrings made of pink cultured diamonds |
Close-up view of the pink cultured diamond clip earrings with detachable pendant that could be worn separately |
Yellow cultured diamond earrings |
Since a Golcondia cultured diamond is real diamond,
it also appreciates in value, hence every Golcondia diamond purchase is a smart
investment. Since the Golcondia
authentic cultured diamond jewelry are priced less than mined diamond jewelry,
it provides the modern buyers with the option of either using the cost savings
for another important life milestone or using the total cost of a mined diamond
to buy a cultured diamond that’s bigger in carat and more radiant in
appearance.
For example, a man who is buying a solitaire
engagement ring with a budget of Php300,000 can get a 1 carat average grade
mined diamond. With the same budget, he
can get a 1.5 carat Golcondia cultured diamond.
Golcondia, Value of A Lifetime
More than the monetary factor, Golcondia diamond
jewelry is a piece of heirloom that tells a sentimental story behind it, which
may be passed on from generation to generation.
Part of the story could be a statement that brags like, “this piece of
diamond jewelry did not abuse the environment and did not take advantage of
laborers, this is a peace-loving jewelry and I am passing it on to you.”
Credits:
Thanks to Ms. Danii San Agustin and Mr. Tomy
Florencio for the interview, professional photos and additional information.